The Annual Winter Festival in Venice: The Carnival
Updated: Junly 2023
In the 1970s, the Italian government decided to improve the climate for tourism in Venice by promoting the rebirth of Carnival. In 1980, the first full-scale modern Carnival, or “Carnevale” in Italian, was held in Venice.
The tradition of Carnevale had last been held 183 years prior and had ended when Venice’s power waned after an invasion by France. For the previous 635 years, Carnevale had celebrated the power and opulence of Venice and its storied society. Carnevale originally started as a celebration on the narrow Campo Santo Stefano in thanks for an important military victory.
Over the years, it became more opulent and popular, and the event moved to the famous Piazza San Marco. Eventually, high society from all over Europe came to Venice each year to join in the fun. In those days, Carnevale ran for weeks, and eventually as long as a month of continuous partying.
A law stipulated that every citizen could attend Carnevale wearing a mask. The idea was to welcome everyone and eliminate class distinctions during Carnevale. In today’s modern Carnevale, elaborate masks and costumes are still de rigueur, with awards given annually for the very best. The current Italian slang for appearing at Carnevale in masked costume is “fare le vasche,” which means to swim in the pool.
In the early days, while the party continued in public, high society in Venice and eventually Europe held lavish private balls that required a gilded invitation. The gilding of invitations was meant to prevent forgery by the masses that yearned for entry to these private gala balls. Even today, in modern Carnevale, the most exclusive balls and parties are next to impossible to attend, with one exception.
Knowledgeable tourists who book well in advance may attend Il Ballo del Doge, or “the Doge’s ball.” The Doge was the name of the senior government official from medieval Venice. Presumably, the title remains and Il Ballo del Doge is the most exclusive of public Carnevale celebrations. Il Ballo has been held for several years in the magnificent Palazzo Pisani Moretta, located on Venice’s famous Grand Canal.
When I attended eight years ago, the tariff was $500 per person, which included entry to the Ball and an amazing multi-course dinner with drinks and entertainment. Attending Il Ballo del Doge was an unforgettable experience for our family. For those unable to obtain limited tickets, the rest of the public Carnevale activities are well worth attending.
